Too Big or Not Too Big…part 2.

This week I’ll be discussing sports coats and ties. Either item can make or break a trendy look for us “Big Guys.”

Sports Coat/Blazer:

Here is where you can truly develop your GQ manor and strut like the rest of the size 32 crowd walking those city blocks. You should most definitely get your sports coat tailored. Take the 15 minutes out of your life and find a good dry cleaner/tailor (I recommend dry cleaner because its cheaper) and let them measure how your coat should really fit on your body. Although we all know the “comfortability” that large cover-ups like sports coats may give us, it just serves as a mechanism to seem larger than you really are. Sports coats should be tailored to fit slight snug when fully buttoned. This allows you to unbutton after dinner without having to worry about tons of material flapping through the winds at your sides. One of the most important things to remember is that bigger guys will have to purchase bigger blazers. Although the circumference of the blazer might fit perfectly “store bought,” 9 times out of 10, the sleeves will be extremely too long and the shoulders will either sag towards your upper bicep area or, with padded jackets, spill over the top of your shoulders. This is what I like to call a “fridge coat” because ultimately, your upper torso takes the form of a refrigerator. “Baggy” suit jackets, sports coats or blazers are probably the WORST thing a big guy can do to himself so try to keep the extra material to an extra minimum.

*Note: Just in case you were concerned with the shoulder padded jacket forming extra bulk, don’t be. The answer is simple……NO PADDED JACKETS!

Ties:

This is a bit tricky. Unfortunately, not everyone can pull off up-to-date tie-wear. Yeah, it took me sometime to realize it also. So if your thinking of running to the store and picking up a skinny tie to throw on with your outfit….don’t. It just doesn’t seem to work for big guys….we may be too wide, too round…well I’ll call it too broad. Either way, we need to stick to the regular average-joe tie. But, its important to keep a simple tie knot…try to steer clear of the double Windsor and accompanying big knots; its already bad enough that we have almost no neck whatsoever. By adding a fat knot to your outfit, you will instantly be changed into Chris Farley or John Goodman.

Just imagine how overstuffed this man would look with a chunky, collar-filling double windsor.

Next time we’ll delve into the realm of “Man-Boobs”…..yep I said it. Learn how to turn those pockets of flab into a chiseled chest. And if you’re lazy, we’ll just make them disappear with a few extra wardrobe additions.

-LaRok

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Comments
2 Responses to “Too Big or Not Too Big…part 2.”
  1. NSK says:

    the thing with ties is proportion in relation to the shirt collar, jacket lapels, and wearer’s width.

    a big guy like john goodman could pull off a half-windsor (the double-windsor is comical) in a regular-width tie only if he were also wearing a spread-collar shirt. see: http://chubarama.net/wp-content/uploads/2007/07/00015f.jpg

    also, your beef with padded jackets is puzzling: don’t most – if not all – dressy jackets have at least some structure in the shoulders? this padding is essential to the drape of the jacket.

  2. LaRok says:

    NSK— I’d have to agree with you on your view on semi-fat knots with spread-collar shirts. The spread-collared shirt could possibly be one of “big man’s” best friends. The wider spread of the collar allows for more, or an illusion of more, neck area when fully buttoned. So, for that I must say touché good sir.

    In regards to sports coats/blazers, I think you may have mistook my mentioning of “padding” with average, generic materials that are placed in any coat to keep “structure” as you put it. You are very correct; every sports coat or blazer has at least a small amount of padding unless it is a leisure and non-formal jacket. I was attempting to reference many of the “super-bulky” evening/formal jackets, as well as vintage sports coats. These types of blazers are more commonly known to have the extra shoulder padding that can either be taken out by hand at your own convenience, or taken out by a tailor. Especially with actual vintage (not manufactured in ’08 to look like ’80) many coats were made to give the illusion of a broader chest/shoulder area, making smaller guys seem bigger. A broad shouldered jacket mixed with a skinny jean/trouser can provide the illusion of a “buff” guy where a skinny one truly exists. But my apologies for the ambiguity of the comment. Duly noted…

    -LaRok

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